3 DAYS IN BILBAO

Bilbao, capital of Biscay and heart of the Basque Country, underwent a radical transformation in the late 20th century. The construction of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao —opened in 1997— not only added an iconic titanium and curves building designed by Frank Gehry, but spurred the regeneration of the Nervión estuary and turned the city into a first-rate cultural destination. Today Bilbao combines industry, Basque tradition and a vibrant artistic and gastronomic scene.

The Guggenheim is the star: its modern and contemporary art exhibitions, together with the building's architecture and outdoor sculptures —such as Jeff Koons' giant Puppy— attract millions of visitors. A few steps away, the Fine Arts Museum offers a first-class classical collection. The Arriaga theatre, the Euskalduna palace and the Abandoibarra promenade complete the new Bilbao along the estuary.

The Old Town —the Seven Streets— is the historic quarter with churches like Santiago Cathedral, Plaza Nueva and dozens of pintxo bars. The Ribera Market, one of the largest covered markets in Europe, is a must. Riding the Artxanda funicular for a bird's-eye view or walking across Santiago Calatrava's Zubizuri bridge are unmissable. Bilbao gastronomy: bacalao a la vizcaína, marmitako, txuleta and pintxos with txakoli.

Bilbao is home to Athletic Club, one of the most emblematic teams in Spanish football. Aste Nagusia (Semana Grande) in August fills the streets with concerts, parades and festive atmosphere. The oceanic climate brings frequent rain; summer is the driest season. The city has its own airport and is connected by high-speed rail to Madrid; the metro designed by Norman Foster is another landmark.

The surroundings offer beaches like Getxo and Sopelana, the Vizcaya Bridge in Portugalete —UNESCO World Heritage— and nature reserves. Bilbao is more affordable than San Sebastián but equally rich in gastronomy and culture. Autumn and spring are ideal for visiting with fewer tourists; the Guggenheim and pintxos never disappoint.